Pearl type
Where do pearls come from?
Pearls are biogenic gems, meaning they grow in a living organism. They are split between natural (pearls are formed without human intervention) and cultured (mollusc is implanted with a bead and/ or tissue to trigger the formation of a pearl). For more information about pearl types and mollusc species, explore ONE Pearl Blog
What are the differences between cultured saltwater and freshwater pearls?
Both categories are grown in filter-feeding molluscs. Saltwater molluscs, predominantly oysters, feed on microalgae or plankton whereas freshwater mussels require specific nutrients, usually agriculture by-products. Those differences lead to difference impact profiles and production volume.
The pearls themselves offer different physical attributes which reflect the concerned mollusc species they are harvested from and seeding or nucleation technique used to trigger their formation.
Pearl size
How big can a pearl be?
Pearls physical attributes or value factors are usually a reflection of the mollusc they grow within. Each mollusc species would produce a typical size range as well as an extended range. For example, South Sea bead-cultured round typical size ranges from 9 to 15mm but can stretch from 7-20mm for spherical pearls and go as big as 40mm for baroque shapes. Check-out section ONE harvest section for more details.
Is bigger always better?
All other value attributes equal; a bigger pearl would generally command a higher value. This said, personal preferences, proportions, availability…etc. also come into play when choosing a pearl.
Can a pearl farmer influence the size of a cultured pearl?
The size of the nuclei implanted into a mollusc to produce a cultured pearl, the metabolism and health of the host mollusc, nutrient accessibility and cultivation period, all influence the size of a cultured pearl.
Pearl shape
Is rounder better?
Spherical and symmetrical pearls generally command a higher value than their freeform counterparts such as baroques and circle pearls. Round pearls featuring regular deposition often feature superior lustre, but they are also easier to be fitted on standard jewellery findings. As a result, pearl farmers generally aim at producing round pearls, but other shapes are also desirable. Drops and oval are perfect for dangling earrings and pendants; baroques are bold and unique…etc.
Pearl colour
Where does the colour of a pearl come from?
Each mollusc species offers a specific colour palette, white to gold for Pinctada maxima’s South Sea pearl, silver to green for Pinctada margaritifera’s Tahitian black pearls and, white to silver for Pinctada fucata/ imbricata/ radiata’s Akoya pearls.
Actual pearl colour can be influenced by the nutrients and origin the mollusc has access to throughout its productive life as well as the piece of mantle tissue taken from a donor mollusc and then inserted together with the nuclei in the host mollusc during the nucleation/ seeding operation.
Pearl grade
What is the difference between grading and classification?
Pearlers and traders developed grading systems specific to the type of pearl they harvest and sell. We describe our pearls using a universal classification system derived from the Gemological Institute of America ’s (GIA) 7 Pearl Value Factors and the World Jewellery Confederation's (CIBJO) pearl guide.
Grade combines lustre, surface, and nacre criteria. Gems are collectors’ items. Fine pearls suit "haute" jewellery and one-of-a-kind creations. Jewel grade pearls ideally fit repeat designs and strands.
Pearl country
Where are pearls produced?
Each pearl type is harvested from mollusc species natives to different areas of the world. Pinctada maxima, which provides South Sea pearls, grows in a narrow geographical area stretching from northern Australia to southern Japan, including Philippines, Indonesia and Myanmar.
Pinctada margaritifera, which provides Tahitian black pearls, grows all around the planet between the tropics but are particularly abundant in French Polynesia and to a lesser extent Fiji Islands and other areas native to Pinctada maxima.
Pinctada fucata from Japan, imbricata found in the Pacific and now Mediterranean and radiata which originates from the Persian Gulf are now designated under Akoya complex as a result of hybridisation to improve quality and resilience against climate change.
How does country of origin matters?
The country of origin of a pearl does not necessarily drive its quality or social and environmental impact footprint but it does provide indications on regulatory environment. Provenance can reinforce the emotional bond between the gem and the wearer.
Pearl product
How difficult is it to match pearls?
All our pearls are “ready-to-set” into jewellery. Because each pearl is unique, the process of matching increases their value. It can take years to complete a perfect strand and several harvest to match a perfect pair.
Pearl category
What is a cultured pearl?
It takes 3 molluscs to produce a bead-cultured pearl. The donor provides a piece a mantle tissue which will be inserted in the reproductive organ of the host together with a nucleus carved from another mollusc shell. A pearl sac is formed within which layer of nacre will be deposited on the nucleus over several months before a pearl is harvested.
Pearl impact
What does it take to be sustainable?
Responsible pearlers and pearl farmers meet baseline international standards. Ethical operators ensure current best practices in relation to social responsibilities are in place in addition to meeting baseline international standards. Sustainable pearlers and pearl farmers commit to social and environmental impact measurable targets assessed by a 3rd party.
Related sustainability claims can associate with pearls when a chain of custody and/ or traceability solution is in place.
Pearl purity
Is there a difference between processing and treatment?
Post-harvest processing includes saltwater wash and polishing to remove all residues and impurities. Most cultured pearls are nowadays routinely subject to a pre-treatment or maeshori in Japanese which involves an alcohol-based solution and exposition to UV light. The purpose is to stabilise and improve lustre as well as uniformise colour. This step is considered a treatment as it affects the value of a pearl and should be disclosed.
The term “natural colour” designate pearls that have been subject to maeshori, whereas “natural colour and lustre” pearls have only been processed and therefore, all things equal, should command a higher value.